Antique Jewelry Identification: Eras, Marks and Materials
Identify antique jewelry by era, metal stamps, clasps, stone cuts and settings. Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco and retro jewelry explained.
By Ayoub Farid · · 2 min read
Antique and vintage jewelry is one of the most valuable categories to find in an estate — partly because precious metals and stones hold value, and partly because good period pieces are in demand. Here's how to identify what you have.
Start with the metal
Look for stamps on clasps, ring shanks, pin backs and inside bands:
- Gold: 9K, 10K, 14K, 18K, 22K or 375, 417, 585, 750, 916
- Silver: 925, sterling, 800, 835
- Platinum: PLAT, PT, 950
- Plated / filled: GF, GP, RGP, HGE, "rolled gold"
Unmarked doesn't mean fake — older pieces often weren't marked. See gold jewelry stamps and how to tell real gold.
Identify the era
- Georgian (c. 1714–1837): hand-made, closed-back settings, foil-backed stones, rose-cut diamonds. Rare.
- Victorian (1837–1901): sentimental jewelry, mourning jewelry (jet, hair work), cameos, garnets, seed pearls.
- Edwardian (c. 1901–1915): delicate, lacy platinum settings, diamonds and pearls.
- Art Nouveau (c. 1890–1910): flowing nature motifs, enamel, women and flowers.
- Art Deco (c. 1920–1935): geometric designs, platinum and white gold, contrasting stones.
- Retro (c. 1935–1950): bold rose and yellow gold, big cocktail rings.
- Mid-century and later: modernist designs, signed costume pieces.
Clues from construction
- Clasps: C-clasps on old brooches; safety catches came later.
- Stone cuts: old mine and old European cut diamonds have a different look to modern brilliants.
- Settings: hand-made settings are slightly irregular.
- Signatures: designer and maker names on clasps or backs.
Costume jewelry can be valuable
Signed vintage costume jewelry by well-known designers is very collectible. See costume jewelry worth money.
Getting a value
Jewelry value combines metal weight, stones, maker and period appeal. For fine jewelry, a qualified jeweler or gemologist is worth consulting — testing stones requires tools.
For a quick first identification, scan the piece with AntiqueIQ: you'll get the likely type, era and an estimated value range. Then check stamps under magnification.
Frequently asked questions
How can I tell if jewelry is antique?
Look at construction, clasps, stone cuts and style. Hand-made settings and old cut stones suggest age.
What do numbers like 585 or 750 mean?
They show gold purity in parts per thousand: 585 is 14K, 750 is 18K.
Is unmarked gold jewelry real?
It can be. Older and some foreign pieces weren't marked. A jeweler can test it.